Posted in 'How to', Allotment, Blackberries, Fruit, Japanese wineberries, Pruning, Raspberries, tagged Allotments, autumn jobs for the garden, autumn pruning of fruit bushes, Japanese wineberry pink stems, Pruning a Japanese wineberry plant, pruning summer fruiting raspberry canes, Pruning_ a blackberry out of my shed, Urban gardening, winter jobs in the garden on December 24, 2012 |
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All this rain has provided plenty of excuses for curling up with some great gardening books, but on a rare dry day this week, I got on with tackling a job I’ve been itching to do for months. One of my Japanese Wineberry plants is looking a tad on the unkempt side and is rather overdue for a prune. Old stems need to be cut back to make space for new growth come spring and to make the plant easier to train (and more aesthetically pleasing).
Before seizing the secateurs, note that only about half of the stems need to be pruned! You need to leave the newer, more lush, pink stems and only cut away (from the base of the plant) the old brown woodier stems on which the fruit was borne this summer. As Japanese Wineberries fruit on one year old stems, the fresher pink stems will bear the fruit next summer, and new stems that grow during next year will fruit the summer after that.
Once all the old wood has gone, you can see how many stems you’ll have to provide fruit for next year. You can leave the plant to its own devices, in which case you’ll need a good 2m x 2m space,
or train it to form any number of shapes that you want to experiment with. (If you have too many stems to train, cut away the weaker spindlier stems from the base of your plant.)
Old stems can be cut back anytime after the plant has finished fruiting (about September onwards), and if you haven’t tackled them already, other fruit, such as blackberries and summer fruiting raspberries can be pruned now, again, removing only the older woody stems (about half the bush) and keeping this year’s fresher looking growth to provide fruit for next year.
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Posted in 'How to', Allotment, Fruit, Pruning, Raspberries, Secateurs, Still time to, tagged food, How to prune raspberries, London Gardening blog, My raspberry produced no fruits this year, no raspberries this year, plants, pruning autumn fruiting raspberry canes, pruning autumn raspberries, Pruning Raspberries, pruning raspberry canes, pruning summer fruiting raspberries, pruning summer fruiting raspberry canes, raspberries that haven't fruited, raspberry canes, Secateurs, September pruning for summer raspberries, urban gardening blog, Why don't my raspberry plants fruit?, why raspberries haven't fruited on September 3, 2012 |
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Once your summer fruiting raspberry canes have finished fruiting this year, cut back only the old canes that the fruit was on to ground level, leaving the newer canes (maximum 6-8 new stems per plant) to grow for next year’s fruit. The fruited canes and new canes will look quite different: the old stems will be more brittle at the bottom and brown and woody, whereas the new canes will be more supple and a fresher green colour. Cut the old stems from the supports as you cut them away at the base and tie in the new stems in their place. If you have new canes that are growing further away from the supports, dig these out and plant elsewhere or give to friends!
If your raspberry canes haven’t fruited this year, pruning all of the summer fruiting canes either in summer after fruiting or in spring, is probably where your problem lies. You mustn’t prune the newer green canes that grew this year, as these will be the one year old stems that your raspberries will fruit on next year. Hope that makes sense. Don’t prune any canes that grew during this year (and this might be all of your canes if you cut back all of the stems in spring) and you’ll have fruit next year!
Autumn raspberries should be happily supplying fruit right now and up until October or November. These canes can be pruned in February.
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