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Archive for the ‘Panters and pots’ Category

This strange arrangement is me, at my tiny strip of an allotment, trying to train a Japanese Wineberry into a variety of forms, so that it can fit into smaller spaces.

Left to its own devices, it can be a monstrous spidery thing. Charming if interplanted with annuals, but a bit too space grabbing for a more petite front garden.

So here I was aiming for a Jean-Paul Gaultier-esque curvy cone shape,

And here I was experimenting with a sort of fan or star shape (and also wanted to illustrate the beauty of my urban plot!).

And this pic is of a lovely neighbour, David, training a Japanese Wineberry into a figure of 8. Lots of these ideas I’ve ‘borrowed’ from Blackmoor Nurseries from their small but inspirational stand at Hampton Court Flower Show this year, and I’m eager to see which permutation will give me the most fruit.

Ever since I tasted these delicious berries, I’ve been pondering how to squeeze them (and Blackberries for that matter), into a tight spot and looking forward to tasting the fruits of my labours come July. If you fancy a go, then it’s a good time now to order bare-rooted fruit canes. I think the figure of eight would even fit well into a large pot. Plants available from Blackmoor Nurseries.

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I needed a rhubarb crown for pics for my book, pronto, so I thought the best thing to do was to dig up and divide a rhubarb plant on my allotment. From what I’ve read, November through until March is the best time to divide and replant crowns, as the leaves have died back and all is dormant. In fact, this is similar to planting bare-rooted fruit canes. Having said that, Ben Asquith at Brandy Carr Nurseries (specialist Rhubarb growers) has divided his ‘Timperley Earlies’ as early as August in previous years and the crowns have grown on well since then.

I haven’t divided rhubarb plants before and wasn’t sure how much root I’d be digging up from my 3 year old plant (ordinarily you’d need to divide plants every 5 years or so).  The roots are fairly sizeable and try as you may to remove them intact, you can’t help break one or two of the longer roots as some spread out like tentacles for nearly a couple of feet.

When dividing, you’ll need to leave some buds on each new piece of root as the plant won’t regrow without root and bud combined. At first I couldn’t make these out, but if you carefully search through the top of the crown, rounded pinky/brown buds do become more evident. Bearing in mind where these buds were situated, I turned the Rhubarb root side up and then cut into the plant with a sharp spade, creating three new crowns from my original.

After replenishing the planting area with plenty of rich compost, I popped one piece of crown back into its hole and the others I planted up into pots, ensuring the crown was sitting just above the soil level. Rhubarb does grow well in pots, but make sure they’re big’uns to accommodate the chunky roots and again, fill with tons of rich compost before planting. In spring it’s a good idea to feed Rhubarb in pots with pelleted manure and give plants in the ground a good mulch around the roots with well-rotted manure in March. Be careful not to cover the crown when mulching though as this could lead to rotting.

Now divided, I’ll need to let this plant have a good year to settle in again and won’t be harvesting any stalks next summer.  Luckily though, I have a couple of other plants growing to keep me well supplied with Rhubarb Crumble.

If you don’t have  a plant to divide, but fancy growing a few of these delicious and decorative perennials, Brandy Carr Nurseries in Yorkshire are sending out crowns now. They have packs of 3 different varieties: ‘Grandad’s favourite’, ‘Raspberry Red’ and ‘Queen Victoria’ and they also have a pack of three ‘Timperley Early’ crowns’ if you want to try your hand at ‘forcing’ in years to come.

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Three weeks ago I sowed some spare pea seeds in a basin for pea shoots. They’re now ready for picking, taste delicious and hopefully, once harvested, will re-grow to give me another helping in a few weeks time.

However, a few days after I sowed my peas, I read a post by Mark at Vertical Veg, saying he just used dried peas from the corner shop for his pea shoots. This makes it a much cheaper option, so I thought I’d give it a go. And he’s right. I soaked the peas overnight and

sowed them nice and close together in an old fruit box (also from the corner shop) filled with multi purpose compost.

I then covered the peas with their about their own depth of compost, watered them in well and waited.

Two and a half weeks later and they’re ready to eat! Hurrah! I did a quick taste comparison with neighbour Annie, and strangely, we found the shoots grown from the dried peas have a more favourable pea-like flavour. Who would have thought it! Huge thanks to Mark for such a great tip and for saving me a packet on pea seeds over summer!

p.s.  When harvesting, pick the shoots just above the lowest leaf to give you maximum yield, but also allowing the plants to grow again.

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